Saturday 15 August 2009

Warkworth - the end of our Journey

I conclude the ramble through Northumberland's Coastal Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty with the village of Warkworth. I hope the places you have seen and read about have been of interest to you and that some time in the not too distant future, you may be tempted to pay a visit to this beautiful area of England.


Four things stand out at Warkworth above all others, the Castle, the Norman bridge, the Church and the Hermitage. Warkworth is one of the jewels in the Northumberland crown - a pretty village that is unspoilt by both modern development and tourism. Looking carefully at the photograph below you will find the castle to the right, the Norman bridge to the left (spanning the river), and the church is below the white building which is below the Norman bridge.





The village of Warkworth is set in a tight loop of the River Coquet, closely guarded by the Castle, which is perched on a high mound at the southern end of the village.




At the northern end of the village are two bridges over the River Coquet. One is the original old bridge, complete with a gatehouse, and the other is a more modern bridge (built in 1965) and capable of carrying the larger vehicles more easily over the river. Access to the village was originally solely through the impressive narrow medieval bridge, though now this fourteenth century bridge is only for use by pedestrians.






Between the castle and the river is the village itself, on either side of a gently sloping main street. Warkworth village itself has one main street, with an exceptional range of galleries, a post office, three pubs, two hotels, restaurants and tea rooms, a chocolate shop & patisserie, a general store, gift shops and boutiques to suit all tastes and pockets, as well as private residences.






There is a beautiful riverside walk near to the village and in summer you can hire a rowing boat or even a canoe.

You will find a golf course and an award-winning sandy beach which is a good twenty minutes walk from the village centre, however you can drive there to a car park alongside the picnic area. The beach overlooks the RSPB reserve of Coquet Island.



Warkworth Beach




In Dial Place, which is the square off to the left of the main street, as you descend the road, near the bridges, you will find the ancient Parish Church of St Lawrence. St. Lawrence church is unique in Northumberland in being a large and almost completely Norman building. There has been a church on this site for around 1,200 years. The first record dates from 737AD when King Ceolwulf of Northumbria gave the church and village to the Abbot and monks of Lindisfarne. The church was the scene of a terrible massacre in 1174, when some 300 of the townsfolk, seeking refuge there from Scottish raiders, were brutally put to the sword and butchered by Duncan, Earl of Fife. The almost 100 foot high spire of the present church dominates the northern end of the village. The nave is thought to be the longest Norman nave in the county.


St Lawrence' Church Warkworth

St Lawrence' Church - interior

Knights Tomb in St Lawrence' church



Warkworth Hermitage is half a mile upstream of the castle. It is open on Wednesdays and Sundays during the summer months from April to September. You can reach it by following a path along the south bank until you reach a boat landing, where you can hire a boat to cross to the hermitage. Hidden by trees and carved into the rock the hermitage includes the remains of the hermit’s house, a 14th Century chapel, a confessional and a dormitory. The hermit was paid to pray for the souls of the Percy family. It commemorates the deaths of the brother and beloved lady of a knight named Sir Bertram, who is said to have created the chapel and remained there the rest of his life. This tale was immortalized by Bishop Thomas Percy in his ballad The Hermit of Warkworth, written in the eighteenth century and dedicated to Elizabeth, Countess and later First Duchess of Northumberland.

Steps up to the Hermitage Chapel

The Hermitage Chapel

The Hermits Living Quarters (Cell)


Warkworth Castle is to be found at the southern end of Warkworth village, sitting on top of a huge mound. Viewed from the air you can see its strategic position as a defence for the village


Warkworth Castle strategically sited in a loop of the River Coquet




A plan of the castle, and a more detailed plan of the keep will help your understanding of the layout of the castle


Warkworth Castle Plan


1.Vestibule (leading from entrance in basement)
2. Hall
3. Chapel
4. Great Chamber
5. Kitchens
6. Pantry and buttery
The Castle occupies an area of nearly six acres, and consists of three main sections, The Outer Bailey, the Inner Bailey and the Keep.


The Outer Bailey is roughly square in shape and is in the southern end of the castle. A deep moat carved into the peninsula defends the Outer Bailey, and a draw bridge would have provided entry to the main gatehouse. In addition to the impressive gatehouse, the Outer Bailey is protected by two towers (the octagonal Carrickfergus Tower to the west and the square shaped Montague Tower to the east). Within the walls of the Outer Bailey were a chapel, stables, a well, a great hall and the Collegiate Church. A tower adorned with a lion (Percy family crest) provided entry into the great hall.


Warkworth Castle Gatehouse

The Great Hall & Lion Tower
The Lion Tower
The Percy Lion on the Lion Tower

A tunnel under the foundations of the Collegiate Church provided the main access to the Inner Bailey. The Inner Bailey is triangular shaped. It is bordered to the south by the Collegiate Church and to the east and west by curtain walls. The Inner Bailey housed the brewery and laundry.



Tunnels under the Collegiate Chapel Foundations

Tunnels - close up

The magnificent, cross-shaped Keep was built on the medieval motte or mound at the northernmost part of the castle which dominates the village of Warkworth. Rising to the height of three stories, the Keep is basically a smaller castle within the larger structure. The Keep contains a hall, chapel, kitchen, pantry and various chambers. Crowning the Keep, a central watchtower provides views of great distances for safety. Another notable feature of the Keep is a central light well that provides daylight to even some of the innermost rooms of the castle. The light well also provided a system for collecting rain water to flush the latrines!


The Keep, with the Lion Tower to the left

Warkworth Castle - the Keep

Situated as it is, Warkworth Castle looks very picturesque looking down on the village of Warkworth. No less a painter than J M W Turner painted this view of the castle.


Warkworth Castle by J M W Turner


The Percy Family Lion



Warkworth Castle viewed from the River Coquet


1 comment:

  1. Thank you for the pictures and information of Warkworth castle. This was my favorite castle when I visited England many years ago. The day we toured the site -- in the dead of winter (January)-- there were no other visitors, so the man taking tickets closed up and took our college group on a tour of the grounds. We even got to go up to the top floor of the keep to see the private residence of the last person living there in the 1890s (?). I recall there was a few pieces of furniture still in the room. I remember the gorgeous views of the river and countryside from those windows, which were still had panes of glass. Unfortunately, my time looking around ended before I got to explore every nook and cranny. The tight schedule of the tour prevented a leisurely exploration, and the rest of my tour did not have the interest in looking around as I did. (I was always the last on on the bus, never wanting to leave a site!) I had no idea that the Hermitage existed until I read it in your post. Curiously, I took some of the same pictures of the castle as you from the same vantage points. They look the same even though I took mine in January and you took yours in August. (Where I live, there would be several inches of snow on the ground in January, and if on the rare chance we didn't have snow, the grass would most definitely be VERY brown, not emerald green as in England!.) - J. in Minnesota

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